A Week in Italy with Helen
Join along as Helen spends a week in Italy! From Milan to Puglia to Rome, follow along on her adventures.
Milan
Day 1
After Helen’s overnight flight from JFK to MXP, she finally landed at 9:45 AM and headed straight to Paper Moon Giardino to get her pasta fix! Paper Moon is tucked away on Via Bagutta which is right off Via Monte Napoleone, a major shopping street in Milan. She enjoyed their infamous Pappardelle Paper Moon along with Carpaccio di manzo and of course, an Aperol Spritz!
After lunch, it was time to check-in at Mandarin Oriental, Milan! The property has one of the best locations tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the streets and steps away from the Duomo, La Scala Opera House and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Once settled in, Helen went to go check out the new Casa Cipriani Milano which houses only 15 accommodations and has the feel of an old gentlemen's club with an elegant bar/lounge as you enter, Cipriani Restaurant on the 3rd floor with a large terrace overlooking Indro Montanelli Gardens and their lounge, Socialista on the top floor with 1940s Cuban décor. The Club also features a beautiful wellness center, beauty salon and fitness area. Of course, Helen had to have a Bellini!
After, Helen headed to the Four Seasons Milano which is a true garden retreat in Milan’s Fashion District. As you first enter, the Stilla bar (open all day) was buzzing with locals and guests enjoying their afternoon apertivo. The Four Seasons is the perfect spot to stay or eat!
To end her day, Helen headed to Porta Romana to have an unbelievable dinner at Trattoria Trippa! It was about a 15-minute drive or less from Mandarin Oriental and more than worth it. Trattoria Trippa is a no fuss, informal restaurant with about 15 tables (or less) serving up seasonal dishes. She enjoyed roasted beetroot with hazelnut sauce, the pappardelle with wild boar ragout and finally the bread pudding.
Day 2
Helen woke up early on her second day to head on a full day private tour with Imago Artis (Four Hundred’s favorite tour operator in Italy)! The day began with the Milan High Up which included a private guide and skip the line tickets to the Duomo where she climbed up to the panoramic terrace on top and then headed inside and also visited a few other cathedrals/churches including Santa Maria delle Grazie where the Last Supper lies.
After they headed to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle II where we started the Milanese Food Tour and really grasped the true essence of Milan by visiting many local food shops and bars.
After Helen went to go check in to her final hotel, Principe di Savoia (part of the Dorchester collection) in Porto Nuova, which is the newer part of the city. The hotel embodies the authentic Italian charm with its traditional décor. Don’t forget to stop in for a drink at the Principe Bar!
Puglia
Day 3-6
After Helen’s time in Milan, it was time to head to Borgo Egnazia in Puglia for a lovely travel conference called Do Not Disturb, which highlighted secluded residences, private islands, private yachts, exclusive experiences and full hotel buyouts.
Situated far down in the heel of Italy in picturesque Puglia, a region known for its rustic villages, secluded beaches and fabulous cuisine, is the award-winning, architectural masterpiece of Borgo Egnazia, located in the small town of Savelletri.
Only a 45-minute drive from the port city of Brindisi and an hour drive from the city of Bari, the masseria-style resort is a hidden sanctuary of luxury, paired with cobbled streets, characterful buttresses and hidden staircases. With 63 guest rooms and suites in La Corte, 92 casette rooms (little houses) nestled around Il Borgo piazza and 29 lavish villas.
Each day was filled with meetings in the morning and afternoon, however, for lunch and dinner, Indigenus Experiences curated custom daily activities to showcase everyday Puglian life as well as unique exclusive experiences. One day we were eating at Grotta Palazzese, and the next we were venturing to the surrounding villages in vintage cars and then another day we were eating in an olive orchard watching the elder of Puglia make homemade Orecchiette.
Rome
Day 7
After the long, but adventurous week in Puglia, Helen headed to Rome for the last leg of her trip! Upon her arrival, she checked in to the wonderful Hotel de Russie (a Rocco Forte) right between the Piazza del Popolo and the Spanish Steps. It is a beautiful hotel with amazing dining options such as Le Jardin de Russie and the Stravinskij Bar.
After checking in, it was time to explore a few of our preferred properties in Rome including JK Place Roma, Hotel de la Ville and Hotel Hassler.
JK Place Roma was beautiful and felt as if you were walking into someone’s home with elevated dining concepts and a library to have an aperitivo. It is a very hidden property on a quiet street in central Rome.
Hotel de la Ville, a Rocco Forte, the sister property to Hotel de Russie, was based on top of the Spanish Steps and had a livelier feel with breathtaking views of the city.
For dinner, Helen headed to Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina for the best carbonara of her life! She also indulged in caponata and veal meatballs.
Day 8
Starting bright and early, Helen headed to the Vatican for a full private tour of the iconic Sistine Chapel, the Vatican Museums, Gallery of Maps and Raphael’s Room as well as St. Peter’s Basilica.
She was able to see masterpieces such as Creation of Adam, the Last Judgement by Michaelangelo, and the largest Church in the world where Michaelangelo has his masterpiece – La Pieta all while being surrounded by minimal visitors.
After Helen headed to the Colosseum where she was able to see the underground area that many visitors are unable to see without exclusive private touring.
Ready to put her feet up, she headed to her final check-in at Hotel Eden (Dorchester Collection) in Ludovisi which is about a 10-minute walk from the Trevi Fountain! The hotel was extremely welcoming with bright colors and full light in each suite. The hotel holds a Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant – La Terrazza and a modern Italian restaurant – Il Giardino Ristorante.
For dinner, it was time for the classic restaurant in Trastevere - Taverna Trilussa! Another favorite spot for carbonara, artichokes and Suppli which was the perfect way to close out Rome and head back to NYC!
Contributor — Helen Himebaugh